February 05, 2015 | FREEP

When Bistro 82 opened early last year in Royal Oak, the sophistication and finesse of executive chef Derik Watson's refined French bistro cuisine took diners by surprise.

In a city best known for bars and taverns, here were beautifully composed plates, the choicest ingredients, and the kind of deep, clean, balanced flavors that come only from the best kitchens. The setting was just as memorable, with its sleek gray-white-and-black dining room; glowing onyx bar, and modern, youthful atmosphere — though the guests come in all ages.

Owner Aaron Belen had promised to give Royal Oak a true destination restaurant, and he delivered. What to order from Watson's diverse menu? Try the pan-roasted cobia with Parmesan risotto, wild mushrooms and buerre rouge; or the dreamy scallops with parsnip puree, salsify and Brussels sprouts or ... frankly, just choose whatever appeals to you and trust the kitchen to exceed your expectations. Bistro 82 is not to be missed.

Dinner; entrées $19-$36. 401 S. Lafayette; 248-542-0082 and www.bistro82.com